Caulk & Grout Repair
That Actually Lasts.

What We Do

Caulk and grout failures are easy to ignore until water gets behind the tile — then the repair becomes significantly more expensive. We handle the full range of caulk and grout work in bathrooms, kitchens, and on exterior surfaces, starting with complete removal of old material before anything new goes on.

• Bathroom caulk removal & re-caulking — Tub-to-wall joints, floor-to-wall seams, and shower door tracks. We cut out and remove all old caulk, clean and dry the joint thoroughly, and apply 100% silicone caulk that bonds properly and resists mold.
• Shower & tub surround restoration — Full perimeter re-caulking of the shower or tub surround. If the grout joints between tiles are also failing, we address both in the same visit so the entire wet area is sealed correctly.
• Grout repair & recoloring — Cracked, crumbling, or missing grout is removed and replaced. Stained or discolored grout that is otherwise structurally sound can be recolored with a grout stain, giving the tile a clean, uniform appearance without the cost of full regrouting.
• Kitchen caulk & backsplash sealing — Countertop-to-backsplash joints, sink perimeters, and the gap between backsplash tile and adjacent surfaces. Kitchen caulk takes constant exposure to water, heat, and cleaning products — we use products rated for the environment.
• Exterior caulk & weatherproofing — Window frames, door frames, siding joints, and trim where caulk has cracked or pulled away. Exterior caulk failures allow water intrusion and air infiltration, both of which affect comfort and energy costs. We use elastomeric exterior caulk that moves with the structure and holds up to DFW weather conditions.

How We Do Caulk & Grout Right

The difference between caulk that lasts two years and caulk that lasts ten is almost entirely preparation. Here is exactly what we do on every job.

• 1. Assess the joint and substrate

  We inspect the caulk and grout condition, check for soft or hollow tile that indicates substrate damage, look for mold or moisture staining, and identify any underlying issues that need to be resolved before re-caulking. If the damage goes deeper than the surface, we tell you honestly before work begins.

• 2. Remove all old material completely

  Every bit of old caulk and failing grout is cut out, scraped, and vacuumed. We do not caulk over existing caulk — it is the single most common reason new caulk fails prematurely. A clean, bare substrate is the only foundation for a lasting repair.

• 3. Clean, dry, and treat the surface

  The joint is cleaned to remove soap scum, mineral deposits, and mildew, then dried thoroughly. Any surface mold is treated before the new material goes on. Applying caulk to a damp or contaminated surface prevents proper adhesion — this step is not skipped.

• 4. Apply the correct product for the location

  Wet areas get 100% silicone caulk. Exterior joints get elastomeric caulk rated for UV and temperature movement. Dry interior trim gets paintable latex. Tile joints get the correct grout type — sanded for joints wider than 1/8 inch, unsanded for narrower joints. The right product in the right place is what makes the repair last.

• 5. Tool, clean up, and cure

  Caulk beads are tooled smooth for a clean, professional line. Grout haze is cleaned from tile faces. We advise on the specific cure time for the product used — typically 48 to 72 hours for silicone in wet areas — and make sure you know exactly when the area can be used again.

Caulk & Grout Questions We Hear Often